2017: Full-bodied and softly dusty, the 2017 Glgondas les hauts de Montmirrail presents a dark melange of cassis and blueberry fruit. It's silky and elegant with a dusting of dried herbs and spice on the finish. The oak has been dialed back this vintage, allowing more detail to shine through. It rivals the les Secrets bottling at this point. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.
Very solid, with a focused beam of dark plum, blackberry and boysenberry pâte de fruit flavors supported by grippy bramble and tar notes and backed by a lingering mineral edge. A roasted apple wood accents frames all the elements. Laurent Brusset's vines are as dramatic as those of any vigneron in Gigondas, but with one distinction. Almost all are lcated on the backside of the Dentelles, with a full southern exposure, resulting in some of the most vividly ripe wines the appellation has to offer. Brusset has chosed the more modern approach of destemming, yet he uses only a modicum of new oak for the ageing, preferring a more finesse-driven profile for the wines. Brusset is a third-generation vigneron. The estate has been based in Cairanne since his grandfather, André, established it in 1947, selling fruit to the local co-op. His father, Daniel, bought the family's first vines in Gigondas in 1966, and today their Gigondas holdings have grown to 45 acres. The bulk of Brusset's 20.000-plus case production is Côtes du Rh&one-Villages Cairanne, yet the Gigondas bottlings are among the best in the appellation.
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