2017: Incredibly promising. Me 2017 Gigondas Les Secrets de Montmirail again looks to be the best wine in the cellar. The raspberry and blueberry fruit is concentrated and it's supported by silky tannins and a rich, lingering finish. With less new oak than in the past the wine is detailed and precise, laced through with hints of garrigue and dried spites. Bravo! Tasted teice, with consistent notes.
2016: This has some showy violet and ganache aromas, followed by mouthfilling fig, blackberry and black currant paste flavors, alls upported by the requisite bramble- and tar-edged structure for balance. Shows terrific energy from start to finish. Laurent Brusset's vines are as dramatic as those of any vigneron in Gigondas, but with one distinction. Almost all are lcated on the backside of the Dentelles, with a full southern exposure, resulting in some of the most vividly ripe wines the appellation has to offer. Brusset has chosed the more modern approach of destemming, yet he uses only a modicum of new oak for the ageing, preferring a more finesse-driven profile for the wines. Brusset is a third-generation vigneron. The estate has been based in Cairanne since his grandfather, André, established it in 1947, selling fruit to the local co-op. His father, Daniel, bought the family's first vines in Gigondas in 1966, and today their Gigondas holdings have grown to 45 acres. The bulk of Brusset's 20.000-plus case production is Côtes du Rh&one-Villages Cairanne, yet the Gigondas bottlings are among the best in the appellation.
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